I am a bit ashamed to admit that I did not visit the citadel until over three months into my stay in Amman. Even though it’s right in the middle of the city, towering over other hills around it, and I would see it multiple times a week. I guess that if something is too close to you, you will never end up going there anyway.
I love the 360-degree view from the hill. You can get a pretty good picture of the main parts of central Amman: downtown, Jabal Lwebdeh, Jabal Amman, Ashrafiyeh, Jabal Hussein. You can see the contrasts of the city: high modern towers in Abdali and the old ruined houses around downtown. It’s all here.
The citadel hill itself is a hotspot of history, from the Romans to the Umayyads. The ruins of the Roman temple can be seen from far away, as well as the dome of the entrance hall of the Umayyad palace.
Part of the experience is going through the back trail through little alleys and behind old houses, that have been standing on the hill for ages. Not everyone knows this route, so you need to know someone to lead you through it.